MUSKOGEE AND NORTHEASTERN OKLAHOMA:
Including the counties of Muskogee, McIntosh, Wagoner, Cherokee,
Sequoyah, Adair, Delaware, Mayes, Rogers, Washington, Nowata, Craig,
and Ottawa. Vol. I.
by John D. Benedict
1922
The S.J. Clarke Publishing Co., Chicago
Chapter XXXVI
NOWATA COUNTY
AREA-WATER SUPPLY-CROPS-TOWNS ESTABLISHED-OIL DISCOVERED-CITY OF
NOWATA-CHURCHES-SCHOOLS-CLUBS-BANKS-HOTELS-BUSINESS
HOUSES-NEWSPAPERS-SKETCH BY MRS. E.G.
WITTER-DELAWARE-LENAPAH-WANN-ALLUWE.
Nowata County is located in the northern part of the state bordering
on the State of Kansas and lying between Craig and Washington counties. It
contains more than five hundred square miles of land, nearly all being of
good quality, capable of producing good crops. In the olden days when the
cattle men had control of the greater part of this country, that portion
now included in Nowata County was much sought after on account of its
nutritious prairie grass and the abundant supply of water. In their drives
to the northern markets with great herds of fat cattle the cowboys were
fond of lingering here for days at a time to give their herds their final
feeding up before rushing them on to the Kansas City market.
The Verdigris River, on its southward course from Kansas, flows down
through the middle of Nowata County and it, together with its numerous
little tributaries, furnishes almost every part of the county with a
never-failing supply of fresh water.
Corn, wheat, oats, alfalfa and vegetables are the staple crops and
many farmers have good grades of cattle, horses and hogs.
The Valley of the Verdigris River is very fertile and many well
improved farms have been developed in that section of Oklahoma. During the
old Indian regime Nowata County was included in that division of the
Cherokee Nation which was known as the Coowescoowee District and many
Cherokees, who appreciated good farm lands, located here seventy and
eighty years ago.
Prior to 1889 there were no railroads in this part of the Territory,
Coffeyville, Kan., being the nearest railroad town, and for many years the
farmers did their freighting back and forth from Coffeyville. During the
summer of 1889, however, the St. Louis & Iron Mountain Railroad Company
extended its line down from Coffeyville through Nowata County and on south
to Fort Smith, Ark. It seems to have been the policy of this Company to
establish a station about every six miles, and in crossing Nowata County
from north to south the stations of Elliott, Lenapah, Delaware, Nowata and
Watova were established.
The valleys of the Verdigris River and its tributaries were formerly
pretty heavily timbered, much of the timber being of good quality. Many
car loads of fine walnut logs were cut and shipped to northern furniture
factories after the railroad was extended down through the country.
The proceeds derived from the sale of these logs aided the farmers
very materially in improving their homes but the money which they received
from that source was only a fractional part of what such valuable timber
would be worth on the market at the present day. These valleys also
furnished many immense cottonwood logs from which a fairly good grade of
lumber was made for building purposes. The development of the agricultural
resources of Nowata County progressed at a gradual pace, but not until the
discovery of oil about the year of 1904 did the towns of the county begin
to manifest vigorous signs of life. Oil was first discovered in the
southern part of the county in what was designated as the "Alluwe" field.
Prospectors and drillers soon got busy in various parts of the county and
by 1906 the famous "Hogshooter" field was discovered. Oil was also found
at Coody's Bluff and other parts of the county. The deposits of oil in
this county were found to belong to what the drillers termed the "shallow"
field, and because of the comparatively small cost of drilling a well, the
development progressed rapidly and a lively scramble for leases and
drilling permits ensued.
Fortunes have been made by the oil operators in this section of the
state, and wells drilled several years ago are still bringing their owners
handsome incomes. In addition to its numerous oil wells, Nowata County has
an abundance of natural gas and coal for fuel.
CITY OF NOWATA
The City of Nowata, the county seat, is located in the south central
section of the county on the St. Louis and Iron Mountain Railroad, not far
from the Verdigris River. It is now a flourishing city of 5,000 people and
is supplied with a system of water works, electric lights, telephones,
natural gas, paved streets, cement sidewalks and all modern conveniences
usually found in an up-to-date city of its size.
It is surrounded by rich farm land, which is especially adapted to
small grain. This is also an ideal dairying and stock raising country. The
City of Nowata is in the heart of the shallow oil field of Nowata County
and immediately adjacent to the city is a vast coal field which is now
being opened.
Nowata has an assessed valuation of $2,839,669 and an estimated
valuation of $5,000,000. The 1920 census gives the following figures:
Population, 4,435, of which 3,920 are white and 515 are colored, and only
forty-nine foreign born. It has 1,077 homes, 578 of which are owned by the
occupants and 357 of these are free from debt. It has 26.55 miles of
streets, 6.47 miles of which are paved, a municipally owned water plant,
giving the citizens one of the lowest water rates in the state; motorized
fire equipment, and a greater portion of the city served by a sanitary
sewer.
The public schools have a total enrollment of 1,406, classified as
follows: White grade school, 874; white high school, 318; colored grade
school, 161; colored high school, 53; with a corps of fifty-six teachers
and an annual payroll of $77,904. The high school is approved by the North
Central High School Association, and its graduates can enter any state
college in the country without undergoing an examination. The school
system represents an investment in grounds, buildings and equipment of
$225,000 for white pupils and $40,000 for colored pupils.
It has a public library, open eight hours a day, with a competent
librarian in charge. It has 2,784 volumes for adults and 1,250 volumes in
the juvenile department.
Nowata has seven churches, representing an investment of $130,000,
which are served by able ministers. The churches exercise a wider and
deeper uplifting influence than the average church of the modern day. They
represent of membership of over fifteen hundred, an average Sunday
attendance of over twelve hundred and a Sunday school attendance of over
one thousand.
Nowata has a live Rotary Club, devoting most of its energies toward
Boys' Work, a hustling Lions' Club, whose activities are along the lines
of civic improvements, a large Community Club composed of citizens not
only of the City of Nowata, but of all Nowata County. The Women's Clubs,
both literary and musical, are not only alert and progressive in their
respective efforts of self culture, but are of practical service to the
community and are affiliated with both state and national federations.
The city has three strong banks with resources amounting to $2,500,000
and deposits amounting to $1,720,000. It also has a strong Building & Loan
Assn. with resources of over three hundred thousand dollars and no
delinquent interests. In addition to the above, Nowata has three
high-class hotels, equal to any to be found in any city of 25,000; three
machine shops, four lumberyards, two grain elevators, ten garages, five
oil stations, three of which operate modern drive-in filling stations,
three seed houses, a modern 36-ton capacity artificial ice plant, with 500
ton storage capacity, which shipped over one thousand five hundred tons of
ice last year; a fine radium bath house with eighty-five rooms and expert
attendants. It boasts of having one of the best daily newspapers of the
state, giving both Associated and United Press telegraph news service and
two weekly newspapers. Nowata is the headquarters of the Henderson
Gasoline Co., manufactures of casing-head gas, from the largest single
plant under one roof in the world and the second one built in the
Mid-Continent oil field. It is also surrounded by the greatest shallow oil
field in the Mid-Continent section, the same being served by four
pipe-line companies. The retail stores are equal in appearance and service
rendered, to any, and serve a population of over fourteen thousand people
within a radius of eleven miles.
Nowata's industrial advantages are unexcelled. With oil and coal all
around it, these advantages should be more rapidly developed than they now
are. Much of the foregoing information was furnished by Mr. C.E. Manning,
the efficient manager of the City of Nowata, who also adds that as early
as 1889, ten years before taxes could be levied for public purposes,
Nowata provided free schools for the boys and girls of the community. The following interesting sketch of the City of Nowata was written by
Mrs. E.G. Witter of that city and read at a meeting of the La-Kee-Kon
Club, one of the most active of the Women's clubs of Nowata: "If a complete history of Nowata were being written a most
interesting account would be possible-indeed, we might glean from
its prairies and weave into its early history beautiful Indian
Legends with facts of its sturdy western life. But owing to the
brief time allotted to the writing of the article, I will take up
only the important steps in its growth and progress to date. "We first learned that the Iron Mountain Railway established
stations through the Indian Territory at an interval of every six
miles; completing the road to Nowata in the early fall of 1889. When
the station was established, the name Noweata, a Delaware word
meaning 'come here' or 'Welcome' was suggested and adopted. The
railroad men mispronounced the name, calling it Nowata and officials
from Washington wrote the name Nowata on the official documents. So
the town gradually became Nowata, instead of Noweata, as it was
originally named. "The Civic club, an organization of Nowata ladies, tried at one time
to have the name corrected but there was so much red tape about the
process that it was finally dropped. "After the depot was built, Mr. J.E. Campbell erected a store
building, which was the first structure completed in town following
the erection of the depot. "Mr. W.V. Carey put up the next building, which was Nowata's first
hotel. This joined Mr. Campbell's store and the two buildings
occupied the ground where Carey Hotel now stands. Later a fire which
originated in the hotel destroyed both buildings. Part of the goods
were saved from Mr. Campbell's store and these he placed in a shed
on the corner where the Frick-Reid Supply Store now stands. Later
Mr. Campbell put up a frame store building on the corner where
Campbell and Cobb's store is located. This store was later destroyed
by fire after which Mr. Campbell immediately erected the building
now occupied by Campbell and Cobb, which was completed in 1894 and
which was Nowata's second brick building. "Before that time Mr. Henry Armstrong of Coody's Bluff had put up a
brick building which is still standing and is now occupied by the
Farmers' Supply Company. These brick structures were followed by the
present post office building. "Nowata's first real impetus was caused by the establishment of the
United States Court, being located here in 1904. When it became
apparent that Congress would establish courts at several towns in
the Indian Territory, Mr. E.B. Lawson was induced to go to
Washington in the interest of this matter and his success caused
great rejoicing in the small but ambitious village. "The First National Bank at that time was preparing to build on its
present site, but instead of erecting a two story building as had
been planned, a third story was added for the accommodation of the
Federal Court. This building was destroyed by fire in 1909 and at
that time the third story was used by Nowata County for court
purposes. Nearly all the county records up until that date were
destroyed, a serious loss and inconvenience felt by the county to
the present date. After the First National Bank Building was
destroyed, court was held in a small building on West Davis Street
until the present courthouse was completed in 1912. "After the Iron Mountain Railway had located a station here, several
buildings had been erected and streets and alleys had been
established by common consent of the people before the townsite had
been surveyed. "In 1892 the Cherokee Nation laid off the townsite of Nowata one
mile square; subsequently this area was reduced to 320 acres by the
Federal Government in 1904. After the town was incorporated in 1892
the Cherokee Nation auctioned off the lots, which they did each
following year. At the first sale of these lots there was no
disposition of individuals to bid on lots which had already been
built on. Of course the parties building had had no title to their
lots and serious trouble and loss might have been caused had others
tried to buy these lots at the auction. However, public sentiment
would have allowed no such thing to happen. Indeed, a man would have
been mobbed had he undertaken it. "With these exceptions there was sharp bidding for desirable lots,
omitting, however, lots purchased for church purposes. Mr. L.T.
Kinkead bid for the Baptist lots where the new Baptist Church now
stands. This church was completed in 1918, taking the place of the
old frame church that was built in 1896 and which was Nowata's first
church. This church was used by all denominations for a while. Mr.
J.E. Campbell bid for the lots for the Presbyterian Church, not far
from the site of the Baptist Church. These lots were afterwards sold
for a considerable sum and the proceeds used to buy the present
Presbyterian site including the Manse, which was erected in 1908. "The Methodist site was bought and donated to the Methodist people
by Mr. George Martin and his brother. The first Methodist Church was
built in 1901, in which the federated Methodists and Presbyterians
held services. The present Methodist Church was built in 1910. The
Catholic Church was built in 1909, followed by the Christian Church
in 1911 and the Episcopal Church in June, 1912. "The church lots and probably most of the lots sold at the first lot
auction were purchased for the nominal sum of perhaps $2.00 or
$3.00, but when the town area was reduced by the Federal Government
in 1904, the people who had purchased lots prior to this time had to
pay for them again. However, the prices were low and four years'
time were given in which to pay for them. "After Nowata was laid off and incorporated, a municipal government
was organized under the laws of the Cherokee Nation, using the
tribal laws. Later, there was provision for a Federal organization
using the Arkansas Law. "Mr. L.T. Kinkhead was elected first mayor of town and served in
this capacity for about three years, not quite finishing his third
term when Doctor Sudderth was appointed to fill his place under the
Cherokee regime. Doctor Sudderth was succeeded by Fred Metzner who
served as last mayor under the Cherokee incorporation. After his tem
expired there was just the one government. The town was incorporated
under the Federal Government in 1898, at which time Mr. Ben Scoville
was elected mayor. "The two municipal governments existed in Nowata for a while with
many conflicts arising and one ending in serious results. The
government under the Cherokee regime was to some extent dominated by
a lawless desperate class. "Johnson Fulsom, or Johnson Push as he was called, was a Choctaw
Indian who had been raised in the Cherokee Nation and who at one
time had been city marshal, until he became so reckless and lawless
that he was discharged in his drunken debauch. He would ride through
the streets and over sidewalks into the stores on his horse,
flourishing and shooting off his revolver, resisting arrest. "In order to put an end to such a lawless state of affairs, the
municipal government under the Federal authorities secured the
services of a fearless man as their marshal from the outside,
namely, Mr. Goodell. The rowdies of the town determined to get rid
of Mr. Goodell and get him out of town but he resisted their
opposition and stood his ground until conditions became unbearable.
The time came when one of the two government factions would
dominate. In the mixup Mr. Goodell killed Mr. Fulsom and his
brother. The town was divided, some siding with and some siding
against Mr. Goodell, who was afterwards convicted in the Federal
Court at Wagoner and sentenced to the penitentiary for twenty years. "Not a great while after his conviction he was granted a pardon by
President Roosevelt. This affair put an end to the lawlessness in
Nowata at that time. "The Nowata people petitioned for a post office and the United
States Post Office Department ordered Mr. Fred Metzner to move his
office from California Creek to Nowata, which he did in April 1890.
Nowata's first schoolhouse was built where the Christian Church now
stands. Mr. Keith of Coffeyville was the first teacher in the
subscription school and Miss Grace Phillips was the first teacher
for the Cherokees. "Later the building now occupied by the Roberts Furniture Store was
rented and used for school purposes. Both the subscription and
Cherokee children attended. In 1903 an addition was made to the old
building and Mr. J.A. Burns became s uperintendent. The present
grade building was erected in 1909 and the high school building in
1918. "When the constitutional convention met in 1907 Nowata was selected
as the temporary county seat of Nowata County for a given length of
time. In 1908 when the county seat went to a vote, Nowata won after
a hot fight with Delaware. "Nowata adopted the Commission form of government in 1913, which is
the present form of city government. The commissioners at this time
are:
R.C. Cauthorne, mayor and commissioner of public welfare;
A.P. Houghlan, city clerk and commissioner of finance;
Frank McCartney, commissioner of public property. "Prior to the adoption of the Commissioner form of government the
city was governed by the aldermanic form, each ward being
represented by an alderman. The Commission form of government has
been replaced by the managerial form at a recent election when a new
charter was adopted. The commissioners have been elected but the
manager has not yet been selected. "The City of Nowata owes her sudden and continued growth largely to
the development of the oil fields in the territory adjacent. The
Alluwe field in November, 1904, was the first field opened, followed
by the Coody's Bluff field about a year later, and then the Childers
and Hogshooter's fields about 1906. All of these proving to be rich
fields. "A test well was put down in Nowata in 1906 but instead of oil,
radium water was found. The opening of these oil fields caused
people from all over the United States to locate in Nowata, as it
was the center for this field. "Before the end of this brief history of Nowata we must mention some
of the clubs and organizations that have worked and are working for
the betterment of our city. In 1906 the Civic club, which I have
mentioned before, organized to assist in the civic welfare of the
city, which they did in many ways. One of the lasting improvements
to their honor was the building of the City Park. "Our La-Kee-Kon Club, which organized in 1903 with Mrs. Eugene B.
Lawson as its first president, has well lived up to its motto
'Mutual Improvement.' Its influence has not only been felt in Nowata
but it has the honor of having been chosen from its membership to
the State Federation of Women's Clubs its most worthy president,
Mrs. E.B. Lawson. "An organization of which few cities the size of Nowata can boast is
our Rotary Club, organized in June, 1919. This club has its
ambitions and from them we expect great results. The Chamber of
Commerce, which is known and represented in practically every home
in Nowata, has already made its influence felt. They have made the
paving of about fifty blocks in the residence districts practically
certain, which is a big step forward and which is the beginning of
many things for Nowata. When all the men of Nowata, who want to see
her grow, get together and put their shoulders to the wheel she
cannot stand still but is bound to move toward a higher goal. "The Music Club, organized in 1905 with Mrs. J. Wood Glass as its
first president, has been instrumental in bringing to Nowata many
treats in the way of music, art, lectures, etc., and is encouraging
the development and love for things artistic in Nowata."
DELAWARE
The Town of Delaware is located on the Iron Mountain Railroad about five
miles north of Nowata. It, too, has profited by the discovery of oil and
natural gas and is now a prosperous little city of 1000 people. It has built up a good public school system, including a good high
school department, ten public school teachers being employed. It maintains
several churches and Sunday schools, and has several civic clubs which are
a credit to the town. Delaware has two banks, a system of waterworks and a
number of stores, some of which furnish supplies for the oil drillers of
that vicinity. It is located but a short distance from the Verdigris River
and is a good trading point for the prosperous farmers of that section of
the country.
LENAPAH
Lenapah is a growing little city of 600 inhabitants, located on the
railroad about six miles north of Delaware. It is surrounded by a good
farming community and has its share of oil and natural gas. The gas has
been piped to the village and furnishes fuel for the homes and shops. One
of the earliest oil fields discovered in this section of the state was
located just west of Lenapah and at the time of its discovery it was
regarded as being one of the most profitable fields in that neighborhood.
Ever since the railroad arrived Lenapah has been a good shipping point,
much of the freight going to and from some of the inland towns being
loaded and unloaded here. Quite a number of well developed farms adjacent
to the town assist in making it a busy little place. Lenapah has two banks, several churches and, considering the size of the
town, it has an unusually good public school system. Ten teachers
constitute its faculty, and in addition to the common school grades, it
maintains a very good high school.
WANN
The prosperous little town of Wann is situated in the northwestern part
of Nowata on a branch of the Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railroad extending
from Parsons, Kan., to Oklahoma City. It has a population of 500, supports
several churches, a bank, several good general stores and a good public
school, with all the grades from the primary up to and including a high
school, eight teachers being employed.
ALLUWE
There are several little towns in Nowata County which are not fortunate
enough to be located on any railroad, but which have good stores and
schools, the most important of these villages being Alluwe. One of the
first discoveries of oil in this section of the state was made near Alluwe
and if it could have secured a railroad, it might have developed into
quite a city. It is located in the southeastern part of the county, very
near the Verdigris River and is a good rural trading point. It has several
good stores, churches and a very good public school in which eight
teachers are employed.
****
Nowata County has the reputation of being one of the most progressive
counties in Oklahoma. Its citizenship consists of progressive men who
have come from all parts of the United States, mostly of the younger
class, very few being of foreign birth. Its farmers manifest the
progressive spirit by improving the standard of their livestock and by
studying the improved methods of farming. The citizens of the county are
in favor of building permanent roads and are justly proud of their fine
county courthouse, a handsome three story brick and Bedford stone
building, finished on the inside with marble and hard wood. It is a
building of which any county might be proud and it evidences the liberal
and progressive spirit of the citizens of the county. |
